My First Mountaineering Trip: Cotopaxi and Chimborazo
When I decided to try mountaineering, I wasn’t sure what to expect. I had plenty of experience hiking in the mountains, but using crampons, an ice axe, and a harness was a completely new challenge. Still, I was confident in my natural strength and endurance, so I figured it was worth a shot.
I chose Ecuador for my first mountaineering adventure, aiming to climb two iconic peaks: Cotopaxi (5,897 m) and Chimborazo (6,263 m). These climbs were exciting not only because of their height but also because Chimborazo is the point on Earth closest to outer space.
Preparation and Acclimatization
I spent my first four days in Ecuador acclimatizing and hiking some smaller peaks:
Day 1: Arrival in Quito (2,850 m) – Rest day
Day 2: Another rest day in Quito to adjust to the altitude
Day 3: Hike to Pasochoa (4,200 m) – My first acclimatization hike
Day 4: Hike to Fuya Fuya (4,263 m) – My second acclimatization hike
I also wanted to hike Rucu Pichincha (4,784 m) to get to a higher altitude before the big climbs, but the cable car was closed for maintenance. As a result, the highest I could go during my acclimatization was about 4,200 m.
Pasochoa (4,200 m).
Cotopaxi: My First Summit
On Day 5, I hiked to the José Rivas Refuge (4,800 m), where we spent the night before attempting the summit early the next morning. This was my first time climbing with crampons, so I took it step by step, learning how to move confidently on snow and ice.
The summit push started before midnight, and after about 6-7 hours of climbing, I reached the top of Cotopaxi before sunrise. Unfortunately, this meant I couldn’t see much from the summit, but it was still an amazing feeling to make it to the top of my first big peak.
The climb wasn’t easy—I had a mild headache and barely any appetite, likely due to not being fully acclimatized. However, this is normal, and nothing that made me worried about not reaching the summit. The experience left me eager to tackle the next mountain.
Me at José Rivas Refuge Cotopaxi.
On my way down after summiting Cotopaxi.
Chimborazo: Climbing to the Closest Point to Space
After Cotopaxi, I had a couple of days to rest at the Chimborazo Basecamp Lodge (3,800 m). By this time, I felt more comfortable at high altitude, and I was ready for the next challenge.
On Day 9, we made the trek to Chimborazo High Camp (5,350 m). The scenery was beautiful, and I felt strong and well-acclimatized by then.
The summit push started before midnight on Day 10, and it was hard work. My guide, Fausto, and I had to break the trail through deep, fresh snow, which often reached up to our knees. The climb was exhausting, but step by step, we made it to the summit.
Standing at the top of Chimborazo, the closest point to the sun and space, was an unforgettable moment. The views were incredible, and knowing I had climbed such an iconic peak made the experience even more special.
View of Mt. Chimborazo from Chimborazo Basecamp Lodge.
Chimborazo High Camp.
My Layering System
During both climbs, having the right clothing made a big difference. Here’s the layering system I used:
Head
Arc'teryx Rho Toque
Craft Neck Tube
Hands
Craft Liner Gloves
Black Diamond Guide Finger Gloves
Top Layers
Base Layer: Helly Hansen LIFA Merino Midweight Crew
Mid-Layer: Arc'teryx Kyanite Hoody
Insulation: Arc'teryx Cerium Hoody
Outer Layer: Arc'teryx Beta AR Jacket
Bottom Layers
Base Layer: Smartwool Merino 150 Boxers
Second Layer: Helly Hansen LIFA Merino Pants
Third Layer: Adidas Multi Essentials Stretch Pants
Outer Layer: Arc'teryx Beta AR Pants
Socks
2 pairs of Smartwool socks
This setup kept me warm and dry, even in the deep snow on Chimborazo.
Itinerary
Here’s how my trip was planned out:
Day 1: Arrive in Quito (2,850 m)
Day 2: Rest day in Quito
Day 3: Acclimatization hike to Pasochoa (4,200 m)
Day 4: Acclimatization hike to Fuya Fuya (4,263 m)
Day 5: Hike to José Rivas Refuge (4,800 m) at Cotopaxi
Day 6: Summit Cotopaxi (5,897 m)
Day 7–8: Rest days at Chimborazo Basecamp Lodge (3,800 m)
Day 9: Hike to Chimborazo High Camp (5,350 m)
Day 10: Summit Chimborazo (6,263 m) and return to basecamp
Day 11: Relaxing in Quito
Day 12: Departure
Lessons and Final Thoughts
This trip taught me so much about mountaineering and myself. Here are a few things I learned:
Altitude Takes Time: Acclimatizing properly is so important. I felt much better on Chimborazo than I did on Cotopaxi because my body had more time to adjust.
Ecuador is amazing: Both the landscape and the people are truly incredible. I think many people hold prejudices about South America, but my experience was nothing short of excellent. The people were extremely friendly and helpful, always with smiles on their faces.
Enjoy the Moment: I didn’t take many photos on summit days because I was so focused on climbing, but I think that’s okay. The experience itself was more than enough.
Climbing Cotopaxi and Chimborazo was an incredible way to start my mountaineering journey. For anyone thinking about doing something similar, I can’t recommend Ecuador enough. The landscapes are stunning, and Ecuador Eco Adventure made the trip smooth and stress-free.
This trip was only the beginning—I’m already thinking about what mountain I’ll climb next!
Cotopaxi summit picture.
Chimborazo summit picture.